Hello,
My name is Mr. Linen.
If you’re a fan of classic suiting in Japan, you’ve probably heard of DORSO, the tailor I’m going to talk about today.
Founded in 2022 by Mr. Riki Saito, who previously worked at the long-established tailor COL in Kobe, DORSO is both a tailoring house and a brand.
I’ve only been a customer for about half a year, but I’ve already commissioned a three-piece suit and a separate jacket—and I’m extremely satisfied with both.
So much so that I’m now thinking of sticking exclusively with DORSO for all future tailoring needs.
There are plenty of great tailors just in Tokyo alone, and to be honest, I haven’t tried most of them. So it’s not that I’ve done an exhaustive comparison before arriving at this decision.
But having already found a tailor that scores a perfect 100 in my book, I don’t feel the need to keep looking for someone who might score 110 or 120.
So what exactly is it that makes DORSO so good?
Let me share my personal thoughts.
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Understated Design
One of the most distinctive features of DORSO, in my opinion, is its timeless, understated design.
This is just my personal taste, but I prefer subtle and universal designs over suits that stand out with bold styling.
The less something screams “British,” “Italian,” or “This-is-that-tailor’s-style,” the more I tend to like it.
Rather than relying on flashy design elements, I believe it’s more stylish to let the fabric and coordination do the talking when it comes to suits.
I’ve heard that most tailoring houses have what’s known as a “house style”—a certain design philosophy or preference.
For example, one famous Savile Row tailor is known for using a single front button on their jackets.
These kinds of overt design features are easy to spot, but there are also more subtle distinctions in pattern cutting that someone like me—a non-expert—might not even notice.
As for DORSO’s house style:
One somewhat distinctive detail is that the front dart on the jacket runs all the way below the hip pocket.
The lapels may be slightly wider than average by today’s standards.
The angle of the gorge line (the seam where the collar and lapel meet) is also slightly steeper—closer to vertical—than the modern norm.
But even considering these, wouldn’t you say that the overall impression is “normal” in the best sense of the word?
Compared to the average modern ready-to-wear suit, yes, some features might be slightly different. But everything remains well within the realm of classic tailoring.
That’s my conclusion, based on my own modest study of classic menswear.
(the below 2 articles are in Japanese.)
Comfort
Another defining quality is how comfortable the suits are.
Whether reading DORSO’s blog or speaking directly with the owner Mr. Saito, it’s clear that he places a strong emphasis on comfort.
I’m not someone with a wealth of experience in ordering suits, but of all the ones I’ve worn, DORSO’s are the most comfortable by far.
The fit around the neck and shoulders is critical to comfort, and I believe Mr. Saito is incredibly particular about getting this just right.
It frustrates me that I can’t explain this in more technical terms.
The only thing I really notice is that there’s a generous amount of ease (the technique of adding fullness to fabric during construction), which contributes to the overall comfort.
Mr. Saito isn’t just the fitter—he’s also a bespoke tailor who can construct a suit from scratch. Because he checks the fit with his own eyes, he can give incredibly precise instructions to the factory about how to adjust the measurements. (in case of Made to Measure)
And I believe this attention to fit also ties back to DORSO’s design philosophy.
For example, sleeves that are too narrow or a waist that’s overly tight will obviously feel restrictive.
But if the garment is too loose, the excess fabric gets in the way and restricts movement in other ways.
A classic, well-balanced fit offers the most comfort.
A True Bespoke Tailor
Apparently, most of DORSO’s clients have prior experience with ordering custom suits—not just budget options from chain stores, but full bespoke experiences.
I believe the biggest reason these discerning customers choose DORSO is because Mr. Saito is a bespoke tailor himself.
DORSO offers both MTM (Made to Measure) suits, which modify existing patterns, and full bespoke tailoring that creates a pattern from scratch.
MTM is generally more affordable than bespoke, but the results can vary dramatically depending on who takes the measurements and checks the fitting.
Take me for example—I know nothing about constructing suits and can’t handle scissors or a needle. So of course, I can’t make a bespoke suit. But I could technically create an MTM suit.
I could measure someone using a tape measure, jot down the numbers, and send them to a factory— an MTM suit is done, at least in form.
But the result would look bad and feel worse.
There are fit points that only someone who can make suits themselves truly understands. The skill to quantify those points and communicate them precisely to the factory is what makes a high-level MTM suit possible.
Of course, the factory’s craftsmanship also plays a huge role and can be a key differentiator.
Free Basted Fitting
Another big plus with DORSO is that basted fittings are free for first-time customers.
While it’s not impossible to make a perfect suit without a basted fitting, I think we can all agree it’s better to have one than not.
Mr. Saito has said that he’s never skipped adjustments at the basted fitting stage. So it’s clear that a fitting is essential for achieving the best results.
(Incidentally, I’ve heard rumors that John Lobb London—the bespoke shoe maker, not the Paris one—doesn’t offer basted fittings. It might be tempting to see this as a mark of supreme skill, but I suspect it’s more because their clients are wealthy enough to treat the first pair as a “test run.” They don’t mind a few tries before reaching perfection.)
For my first order, I went with a three-piece suit. Had I ordered just a jacket, the free basted fitting would only have applied to that jacket. If I later wanted a waistcoat and trousers, I’d have to pay extra for basted fittings.
If you think you might become a regular customer, I’d recommend ordering a three-piece suit for your first visit.
A Matter of Taste
Lastly, let’s talk about taste.
It’s an abstract concept, but crucial when it comes to creating stylish suits.
Just like with hairstylists—no matter how skilled they are, without taste, they won’t create a cool haircut.
It might sound presumptuous to comment on someone else’s taste, but I genuinely think Mr. Saito has an excellent sense of style.
You can see his outfits on Instagram—plenty of great examples there.
From the conversations I’ve had with him, I’d say he’s been a true fashion fanatic since his youth—and still is today.
In my opinion, truly stylish people are always obsessed with clothing.
And taste isn’t just about how you coordinate items. It’s also reflected in the choices for individual garments.
Design decisions like jacket length, button material, button color—these all require taste.
To create a great suit without the client having to specify every little detail, the maker needs strong aesthetic instincts.
For clients like myself who are just average folks, the outcome is usually better when you leave the details to a professional rather than trying to decide everything yourself.
What I’m trying to say here is: if you leave it to Mr. Saito, you’ll get a great suit. No doubt about it.
Pricing
Lastly, a quick note on pricing.
My first three-piece suit came to about 280 000 JPY = around 2 000 USD (250 000 JPY base + 30 000 JPY in options).
My second order—a single jacket—cost about 180 000 JPY = 1 250 USD (150 000 JPY base + 30 000 JPY in options).
These prices aren’t exceptionally low for MTM tailoring.
You could definitely find cheaper options if you looked around.
But what DORSO offers is something those places don’t: added value.
The biggest added value is having a bespoke tailor take your measurements and handle the fitting—something I talked about in the earlier “True Bespoke Tailor” section.
The second is taste. Even if a suit is comfortable, I wouldn’t want to wear it if it didn’t look stylish. Considering how much of Mr. Saito’s taste goes into each suit, I’d say the price isn’t just fair—it might even be a bargain.
And when you throw in a free basted fitting? It might just be shockingly affordable.
Unless you already have a fully defined personal style and find that DORSO’s work doesn’t resonate with you at all, I can almost guarantee you’ll be satisfied.
That’s all from me.
Thanks for reading.
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