Hello, this is Mr. Linen.
In this article, I’ll be reviewing a made-to-measure three-piece suit I recently received
t’s my very first three-piece suit, and as I expected, the result is nothing short of exceptional.
Photos
Let’s start with some photos.
The fabric is a classic medium gray sharkskin—about 250g in weight and suitable for year-round wear. While technically a patterned weave (sharkskin), it’s almost solid in appearance.
In this order, I aimed for “the ultimate in safe and sensible.” I told Mr. Saito, the owner of DORSO, exactly that.
In other words, I wanted a suit with minimal regional or stylistic identifiers—something universally appropriate, no matter where in the world you wore it.
The Trousers
Let’s break things down, starting with the trousers.
Some might find the silhouette a touch generous in width.
I’m not saying this width is the definition of classic tailoring, but whether a bit slimmer or wider, it would still fall within that range. Personally, I lean slightly toward the wider side.
What DORSO gave me is an ideal balance—slightly fuller, yet still understated and safe.
Details include:
-Two outward pleats
-Beltless waistband with side adjusters
-Buttons for suspenders
-22cm hem width with 4.5cm turn-ups
I didn’t provide specific measurements—I simply mentioned I preferred them slightly roomy, and left the rest in Mr. Saito’s capable hands.
By the way, if you look closely, you’ll notice the fabric bunches slightly at the hem, catching on the shoelaces. Especially on the outside of the right leg (left in the picture), the trouser doesn’t fall cleanly.
This happened because I wore a brand-new pair of shoes for the shoot, with stiff waxed laces I had swapped in myself. Combined with the lightweight fabric and the slightly longer hem, the trousers kept snagging.
I’m guessing the laces will soften over time, but as someone who usually orders heavier fabrics—300g and up—this was a revelation. Lighter fabrics don’t always drape cleanly on their own.
If anyone has tips for helping lightweight fabrics fall more smoothly over shoes, I’d love to hear them.
The Waistcoat
This was my first ever waistcoat, so I left all the design decisions up to Mr. Saito.
It’s a six-button waistcoat with four pockets and no lapels.
The length is deliberately short to complement the high-waisted trousers, making my legs appear longer—visually, at least.
That said, it’s not too short at all. From an objective standpoint, it hits the mark in terms of balance and proportion.
I was advised that while a tightly fitted waistcoat can look sharp and classic, it may feel uncomfortable if you’re not used to wearing one. A little ease would go a long way.
In the end, the fit was spot on—neither too tight nor too loose, and I have zero regrets about how it turned out.
The Jacket
Now for the centerpiece of the suit—the jacket, where a tailor’s style really shines through.
What’s your impression from the photos?
To me, the back is breathtaking. The sculpted shape creates a three-dimensional form that’s nearly impossible to achieve with ready-to-wear.
From the rear, it looks like the waist is quite cinched, but in reality, the sizing is roomy and comfortable. From the front, it doesn’t appear tight at all.
The lapel width came to 9.5cm, which, depending on your frame of reference, may be on the slightly wider side—but to my eye, it’s perfectly classic and balanced.
The length covers the seat fully—a proper, traditional length.
Among the optional details DORSO offers, I chose the following three on yellow lines:
-Increased ease in the shoulder
-Increased ease in the sleeve
-Hand-attached collar construction
-Curved gorge line shaping
-Hand-sewn flower loop (boutonnière)
The first two were recommended for comfort.
Honestly, I was a bit concerned I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference—but after wearing the jacket, I still… can’t really tell.
That said, since I can’t compare it to a non-modified version, that’s just how it goes.
Still, the overall structure and dimensionality of the jacket feels like it comes from those enhancements.
I know—I’m just a layman speculating here.
That said, the jacket is exceptionally comfortable.
No tightness at the shoulder, no constriction around the armholes. I’ve had custom pieces in the past that felt restrictive, but this one is pure comfort.
As for the hand-sewn flowerhole, I asked for a subtle look—not the bold Milanese style. The result is a quiet touch of craftsmanship—purely for my own satisfaction.
One feature I especially loved was the gorge line—the point where the collar and lapel meet—and the angle at which it sits.
Gorge height and angle work together with lapel width to shape the impression of the V-zone, and unless you’re very experienced with tailoring, it’s hard to specify what you want.
I’ve never known the exact measurements, so I’ve always left it up to the tailor.
This time, DORSO’s jacket felt noticeably different from my previous two.
The gorge isn’t unusually low, but the angle is steeper—this is clearer when you compare it to the shirt collar.
There’s no objective “better” here—it’s a matter of personal preference—but I found the change refreshing and really liked it.
That said, the shirt I wore in the photos doesn’t quite match the angle of the gorge. Ideally, I’d pair it with a collar that mirrors the lapel’s pitch.
This is a single-breasted suit, but I’ve noticed DORSO’s double-breasted styles often have relatively low gorges with steep angles as well.
Among the three main tailoring traditions—Italian, American, and British—I’d say this one leans closest to the Italian style.
A lower gorge often gives a more relaxed feel.
Put another way, it might lack a certain authority or formality.
But for someone like me, who wants to look stylish without seeming like he’s trying too hard, that relaxed elegance is exactly what I’m after.
In summary, the jacket embodies a universal classicism—with just a hint of DORSO character (says the guy who’s only ordered once…!).
Final Thoughts
From trousers to waistcoat to jacket, this suit is the perfect embodiment of classic, stylish, and safe—in the best sense of the word.
DORSO understood my requests and transformed them into a beautifully balanced piece of work, without compromising the overall harmony.
If you’re someone like me—who values universal appeal and timeless style—I wholeheartedly recommend DORSO.
I’ll definitely be returning, and next time, I think I’ll go for something patterned.
Thank you for reading.
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