Hello,
I’m Mr. Linen.
Back in May 2025, I finally bought a pair of John Lobb Lopez loafers – something I had admired for a long time.
And now, about half a year later, I’ve gone and bought another pair.
Just like the first time, I picked them up second-hand.
目次
How I Ended Up Buying Another Pair
In 2025, the Lopez celebrates its 75th anniversary since its debut in 1950, and the model seems to be getting a lot of buzz this year.
Perhaps because of that, its popularity in the second-hand market has risen, and it’s now rare to find a pair under 100 000 yen (around 650 USD).
Ever since buying my first pair, I’ve been completely captivated by the Lopez. Whenever I had a spare moment, I’d browse flea-market apps and vintage stores online, hoping to find another pair.
My conditions were: My size, good condition and under 100 000 yen (around 650 USD). If those were met, I was ready to pull the trigger instantly — as if I had been keeping my finger on a pachinko machine’s lever for six months straight.
Thanks to that persistence, one day I found a pair matching all my criteria. I checked the photos, found no issues, and made the purchase in less than five minutes.
Color
The pair I bought this time is a shade somewhere between burgundy and brown.
My first pair was brown suede. For the second one, I had been thinking of getting (in order of preference): Brown grain leather, Dark brown calf and Black suede.
In the current lineup, there’s a “Dark Brown Museum Calf” variation with a beautiful, slightly mottled appearance.
My pair seems lighter than the current Dark Brown Museum Calf, so I assume it’s a different color, though it still has a subtle mottled look that makes me wonder if it might actually be Museum Calf after all.
My brown suede Lopez is often considered the most casual configuration of the model — brown instead of black, suede instead of calf — so while it can be worn with a suit, it leans clearly casual.
This new pair, being brown calf, should sit one step closer to the dressy side, making it easier to pair with suits.
Even though they’re both brown, the calf leather adds variety and avoids overlap in how I can use them.
Plus, because this pair has a reddish undertone, I can use it differently compared to pure brown shoes.
For example, when wearing a black jacket, brown shoes can sometimes feel off.
Light brown especially so. Dark brown works fine, but even then I sometimes feel a slight mismatch.
However, burgundy or other reddish shoes often pair extremely well with black. There’s just something inherently harmonious about black × red.
This pair sits squarely in the middle of burgundy and brown, making it incredibly versatile — capable of playing both roles.
(Related article in Japanese)
Since I like pairing green or olive trousers with red-toned shoes, I immediately tried that combination.
Differences in Heel Construction
I can’t determine the exact production year of this pair.
The insole logo matches the current style, but the heel portion of the outsole is different, so I assume it’s from a slightly earlier generation.
One thing that caught my attention was the inner heel construction.
From the outside, both pairs look identical. But on the inside, the stitching on brown suede pair is offset from the center, whereas the new pair has the stitching right in the middle.
I’ve heard people say offset stitching improves comfort, but I personally couldn’t feel any difference.
I doubt that center stitching means “less work” and offset stitching means “more craftsmanship,” but if anyone knows, I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Same Last and Size, Yet Different Fit
This new pair is also a 7.5E, just like my brown suede pair.
The size markings are in different places, but both seem to be on the same last: 4395.
However, the new burgundy-brown pair feels slightly larger.
Width feels similar, but in length it’s noticeably longer — enough that my heel slips without a half insole.
What’s strange is that when placed side by side, the new pair (burgundy-brown one) actually looks narrower and even a bit shorter in outsole length.
And yet it (burgundy-brown pair) feels larger on the foot. Quite puzzling.
Perhaps the insole thickness differs, or maybe it’s just individual variation — I honestly don’t know.
Since this pair seems fairly recent, I assumed the fit would be identical to my other Lopez if the last and size were the same. So if you’re thinking of buying Lopez online, be aware that my experience might happen to you too.
Final Thoughts
Previously, I ranked my favorite loafers, and the Lopez came in first place.
My ratings were:
Versatility: 10/10
Excitement when wearing: 10/10
Comfort: 8/10
On versatility, people often say the Lopez “works with casual outfits and also with suits.”
I believed that too — but when I thought about it more carefully, I began to question it.
Yes, the shape is somewhat neutral — not too round, not too sharp.
But looked at objectively, it’s still fairly round, with a relatively open vamp, and has a distinct casual feel.
I think the Lopez is considered “dressy enough” largely because of the John Lobb brand image — high-end, elegant, refined.
If you asked me whether I’d pair my favorite suit with a 100 USD cap-toe shoe or with the Lopez, I’d choose the Lopez every time.
So I think saying “the Lopez works with suits” is only half true.
Still, brand does matter to me, and just hearing “John Lobb” gets me excited — so I plan to wear them with suits anyway.
As for comfort, I initially gave it 8/10, but maybe it deserves a slightly lower score.
Specifically, the heel is large.
JM Weston loafers also have big heels, but the Lopez feels similarly large, and I don’t feel the heel gripping securely.
That said, in the right size, it’s not loose enough to slip out completely.
Ideally, I’d like suede patches on the heel lining, but perhaps because it affects aesthetics, the Lopez rarely gets that treatment (though there are some examples).
In any case, the Lopez remains irresistibly charming.
My Lopez-hunting journey continues. Next, I’m hoping to find a pair in black suede.
That’s all for now.
Thank you for reading.
コメント