Hello,
This is Mr. Linen.
The other day, I visited a trunk show for the Korean knitwear brand IOLO, hosted at DORSO, where I regularly shop.
There, I picked up a beige long-sleeve knit polo.
When it comes to high-gauge knitwear, the most famous brand is likely JOHN SMEDLEY.
In this article, I share my personal thoughts on how IOLO differs from JOHN SMEDLEY.
Both brands offer a wide range of products, and comparing everything would make the discussion overly abstract. So here, I focus only on knit polo shirts.
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Items Compared
Let me start with a disclaimer: I only own one polo from each brand.
Ideally, comparison reviews should be written by someone who has worn multiple models, but I hope you’ll overlook that.
JOHN SMEDLEY Color: Ivory Size: M
Material: 100% cotton (though wool is more common)
Discontinued model — exact name unknown
The collar shape is identical to the current model DORSET, which shares its collar design with the summer staple ISIS.
In other words, this long-sleeve cotton polo essentially corresponds to a long-sleeve version of the ISIS.
IOLO Color: Beige Size: L
Material: 100% wool
Model name: Classic Polo Shirt
Since the materials differ (cotton vs. wool), comparisons of feel, washability, elasticity, etc. are not meaningful.
So I focus mainly on differences in shape and structure.
Collar Design
JOHN SMEDLEY offers several collar types, but this one feels the most quintessentially “SMEDLEY.”
Its traits are: A large, long collar, and tips that curve slightly inward
For short-sleeve spring/summer models, this collar appears on the ISIS. For long-sleeve fall/winter models, on the DORSET. It is probably the largest collar used by the brand.
The collar length is about 6.5 cm.
A larger collar helps balance a tailored jacket. However, I have no idea why the tips curl inward—likely intentional branding, as it’s instantly recognizable as a SMEDLEY trait.
The collar opening is narrow, like a regular shirt collar.
This gives a classic—or depending on perspective, slightly old-fashioned—impression.
By contrast, IOLO’s collar is also large, measuring 7.0 cm, 0.5 cm longer than SMEDLEY’s.
The opening angle is wider (semi-wide to wide)
The inward curl at the tips is absent
SMEDLEY does have models without the curled tips (e.g., KNOLL), but even so, SMEDLEY collars are generally narrower in opening than IOLO’s.
Summary of the collar section:
Collar length: similar between brands.
Collar opening: SMEDLEY is noticeably narrower
If you care about how the collar angle interacts with your tailored jacket’s gorge line, the choice may differ depending on your usual jacket style.
In my case, IOLO’s collar matched my DORSO jackets better.
When wearing jackets I ordered from DORSO, I often struggle with ready-made wide-collar shirts—the collar angle is simply too wide and doesn’t match the angle of the jacket’s gorge line.
I had assumed SMEDLEY would suit them thanks to its narrow opening, but it was actually too narrow.
IOLO’s collar angle synced perfectly with DORSO’s gorge line.
SMEDLEY’s collar seems meant for jackets with a very aggressive gorge angle.
So I’ve decided to wear my JOHN SMEDLEY knit polo either on its own or with outerwear other than a tailored jacket.
Sizing
To put it briefly: The only major difference is length and most other measurements feel similar.
JOHN SMEDLEY sizing
SMEDLEY divides its polo fits into: EASY FIT — more relaxed, classic. MODERN FIT — slimmer, more contemporary.
The classic long collar—the one most associated with JOHN SMEDLEY—is used only on the DORSET. And the DORSET is produced exclusively in the relaxed EASY FIT.
In other words, if you want that iconic, large SMEDLEY collar, the current lineup forces you to choose the more relaxed EASY FIT.
Looking at the official website and comparing the measurements of EASY FIT and MODERN FIT, the key difference is the length.
EASY FIT is considerably longer than MODERN FIT.
On the other hand, the body width doesn’t differ much between the two. Even in MODERN FIT, the chest doesn’t feel tight, and both fits offer plenty of room through the body.
Length Examples
・EASY FIT (DORSET): S 68 cm / M 70 cm / L 72 cm
・MODERN FIT (KNOLL): S 63 cm / M 65 cm / L 67 cm / XL 68 cm
I find EASY FIT far too long.
When you look at the model photos on the official website, don’t you think the length is simply too much?
If you tuck it in, a longer length can actually be an advantage. But if you wear it untucked, the excess fabric gathers at the hem, and to my eye, the overall balance just feels off.
Even on a 185 cm model wearing size L (72 cm length), it looks long—so unless you’re 190 cm+, the length becomes problematic unless you tuck it in.
My SMEDLEY polo (discontinued) fits like MODERN FIT, with M = ~65 cm length, which is just right untucked.
Looking at the model photos, the proportions don’t feel off at all (though personally, I wouldn’t mind if it were just a touch shorter).
This model is 186 cm tall—only one centimeter taller than the model wearing the EASY FIT earlier.
So if you’re not super tall and buying current models, I think MODERN FIT is the better choice over EASY FIT.
However, the classic large-collar design isn’t available in MODERN FIT.
In other words, with JOHN SMEDLEY you’re forced to choose between:
・Prioritizing the iconic, classic SMEDLEY collar and sacrificing length.
・Prioritizing an ideal length and giving up the classic collar.
(And to be clear, all of this applies only to current models—older models have different sizing.)
IOLO Sizing
IOLO also offers several types of knit polos, but their sizing is almost identical across the lineup. So as an example, I’ll look at the Classic Polo Shirt, which is part of the current collection.
The body width and sleeve length are nearly the same as JOHN SMEDLEY’s, so I’ll skip those and focus solely on the length.
M:63.5㎝、L:65.5㎝、XL:67㎝、XXL:68.5㎝.
Very similar to SMEDLEY’s MODERN FIT: S:63㎝、M:65㎝、L:67㎝、XL:68㎝
Since IOLO is an Asian (Korean) brand and JOHN SMEDLEY is European, the sizing tends to shift by about one size—but even accounting for that, the lengths are essentially the same.
For someone 180 cm tall and 70 kg like me, IOLO in size L—with a body length of 65.5 cm—fits perfectly. (I position the ribbed hem slightly above my waist, letting the fabric gather a little.)
At the trunk show where I purchased it, the staff actually recommended an M size.
Even with M size, the length of 63.5 cm wouldn’t have been an issue, and the width was fine for my slim build (in fact, M might have been slightly better). However, the sleeve length felt a bit short, so I chose L.
IOLO’s length might be too short for very tall people—around 190 cm or taller—but for an average height, it’s just right.
To summarize this section so far:
・For JOHN SMEDLEY, the classic collar type tends to be too long.
・Smaller-collar SMEDLEY models have a more suitable length.
・IOLO is consistent across all models in both collar and length, which is almost identical to SMEDLEY’s small-collar type, making it a perfect fit for most average-height individuals.
Neck Area
Aside from collar shape and length, the next major difference is the neck fit.
Many people assume that JOHN SMEDLEY is the go-to brand for knit polos that pair with tailored jackets, but I disagree:
・JOHN SMEDLEY has a loose neck, making it less suitable for tailored jackets.
・IOLO has a snug (but not tight) neck, which works well with tailored jackets.
As mentioned in the “Collar Design” section, part of the issue is that SMEDLEY’s collar opening is too narrow. Additionally, because the neck is loose, the top button sits lower than it should (further from the Adam’s apple).
This means that even when the top button is fastened, the inside of the polo is more exposed, sometimes revealing undergarments.
Looking at model photos on SMEDLEY’s website, you can see that a white inner T-shirt shows, and the fit looks generally loose.
IOLO fits snugly around the neck, giving a sense of security, and the inner layer is never exposed.
It’s snug, but not tight. For reference, I usually wear dress shirts with a 39 cm neck, and size L in IOLO gives roughly this level of fit.
Regarding construction, SMEDLEY lacks a stand collar, while IOLO has one:
Thanks to the narrower neck and the stand collar, IOLO’s collar sits high enough to prevent inner layers from showing.
Collar Height
JOHN SMEDLEY: approximately 4.3 cm
IOLO: approximately 4.7 cm
The typical jacket collar height is around 3.5–4.0 cm, so SMEDLEY’s 4.3 cm still sits above the jacket collar, but it feels a little borderline.
IOLO’s collar height is more reassuring, fully visible above the jacket collar.
Price
JOHN SMEDLEY long-sleeve knit polo: around 55 000 JPY (around 360 USD)
IOLO: 230 USD.
However, IOLO has no stores in Japan, so importing adds shipping and customs fees.
At the DORSO trunk show, I purchased it for 44 000 JPY .
Considering it’s a trunk show, some commission is likely included, but it’s still about 10 000 JPY cheaper than SMEDLEY.
Other Points
Buttons: SMEDLEY uses plastic buttons, which honestly surprised me. Perhaps it’s just my item, but I didn’t expect SMEDLEY to use plastic buttons. Could all of their polos be like this?
IOLO uses genuine shell buttons.
Regarding rib tension, in the two pieces I own, IOLO’s ribs are noticeably tighter.
But this also depends on wool vs. cotton, fabric thickness, and usage, so it’s not a direct comparison.
Looking at SMEDLEY’s website, the ribs look loose even in model photos, so they’re probably designed to be relaxed from the start.
With a loose neck, loose ribs, and long length, it seems SMEDLEY intends for their knit polos to be worn casually and loosely.
Conclusion
For my personal taste, IOLO wins decisively.
SMEDLEY had no advantages over IOLO: long length, too narrow collar opening, loose neck, plastic buttons, high price.
I thought SMEDLEY’s biggest benefit was that its collar perfectly matched a tailored jacket, but trying it on showed me otherwise.
That said, SMEDLEY’s knit polo may work well with cardigans or casual jackets.
Recently, Shuhei Nishiguchi from BEAMS posted a photo on Instagram wearing SMEDLEY’s DORSET, using a scarf to cleverly turn the loose neck into an advantage.
But for me, that’s a high hurdle and not easy to replicate.
So, in my opinion, it’s fair to say SMEDLEY is less practical in this context.
Thank you for reading.
Related articles below. (only in Japanese.)
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