Hello.
My name is Mr. Linen.
From Monday to Friday, I work as an interpreter for a rather minor language, and on weekends, I work part-time at a vintage watch specialty store.
That is because I love wristwatches.
Working surrounded by things I love is enjoyable, but since most of them are things I want but cannot afford, it feels like fasting while working part-time at McDonald’s.
In this article, I would like to introduce my most-used vintage watches in a ranking format.
目次
- 1 List of Candidates
- 2 Selection Criteria
- 3 9th Place: Omega Constellation, Quartz
- 4 8th Place: Cartier Must Tank LM, Quartz
- 5 7th Place: LIP, Manual-Wind
- 6 7th Place: TIMEX × Nigel Cabourn, Military Watch, Quartz, Current Model
- 7 5th Place: Cartier, Santos Carrée (Galbée), Automatic
- 8 4th Place: Vacheron Constantin, White Gold Case Black Dial, Manual-Wind
- 9 3rd Place: Seiko, One-Push Chronograph, Manual-Wind
- 10 2nd Place: Breitling, Chronograph, Manual-Wind
- 11 1st Place: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso, Manual-Wind
- 12 In Closing
List of Candidates
From the top left: two G-Shocks, a Seiko one-push chronograph, an Omega Constellation, a Cartier Santos Carrée,
and moving to the bottom right: a Timex × Nigel Cabourn, a Cartier Must Tank, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, a Vacheron Constantin, a LIP, and a Breitling chronograph.
As for the G-Shocks, they have their own unique strengths and cannot really be compared, so I decided not to include them in the ranking.
Selection Criteria
The criteria I used for ranking were “coolness (does wearing it get me excited?)” and “versatility (how easy it is to match with clothing),” each scored out of 10 points, for a total of 20 points.
Other possible criteria might include comfort, maintenance costs, and resale value.
However, I believe that with wristwatches, what matters most is whether wearing it excites you and whether it fits your personal style. Everything else is secondary.
Actually, even if it does not match your style at all, if simply looking at it excites you, that might be enough.
As for comfort, honestly, I do not think there is a significant difference among them. Even if a watch is slightly uncomfortable, unlike shoes, it will not hurt to the point of making you cry.
Regarding maintenance (overhaul) costs, I would not like to pay over USD 670 each time, but most vintage watches usually cost around USD 200–330, so I felt this would not create meaningful differences and excluded it from the criteria.
Resale value is certainly important, but if you start thinking about selling before buying, I think it lowers the chance of finding a watch you can truly love, so I excluded it as well.
Versatility depends greatly on the wearer’s style.
If your outfits are mostly monochrome, with silver-tone accessories and hardware, stainless steel or white gold cases with white or black dials are more versatile than yellow gold.
If your wardrobe is mainly earth tones and you wear brown shoes 90% of the time, yellow gold cases tend to be more versatile.
I personally prefer brown and beige tones, but when assigning versatility scores, I tried to be as objective as possible, regardless of my own preferences.
Please forgive me if there is any bias.
9th Place: Omega Constellation, Quartz
Coolness (Does it make me excited to wear it?): 3
Versatility (Ease of matching with outfits): 7
Total: 10 points
The case size is about 32–33 mm, quartz movement, navy dial.
I think the versatility is outstanding.
Stainless case and bracelet watches are probably the most common nowadays.
Unlike leather-strap watches, metal bracelet watches are originally sports watches, but today they are often recognized as suitable for dress occasions as well.
After white, black, and silver dials, navy is a classic favorite color.
Considering that, no one would look at this watch and think it’s outrageous. It works for business, casual, even formal occasions.
I think it leans a bit toward business style. It pairs nicely with navy or gray suits, but I feel it’s less ideal with beige or brown casual suits, tweed or linen jackets.
The dial and hands are beautifully made, and I find them aesthetically pleasing, yet for some reason it doesn’t quite excite me.
The reason I bought it was largely “I know the brand” and “I can afford it,” not “I absolutely have to have this,” so I think I never loved it all that much from the start.
Still, it’s my first proper watch, so I kept it for sentimental reasons.
8th Place: Cartier Must Tank LM, Quartz
Coolness: 5
Versatility: 6
Total: 11 points
Story when purchased:
In my late 20s, when I began seriously loving watches, I desperately wanted a red-dial watch.
The ideal was a red Reverso.
I saw a Japanese comedian wearing one with a white jacket on TV, and was blown away by how cool it looked, so I searched everywhere.
I learned it was a model called GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN 1931 ROUGE Ref.Q278856J.
It’s a reissue of a 1930s original, and as “GRANDE” suggests, it’s slightly larger than the original.
The red Reverso is still sold in 2025, but the color and design didn’t quite resonate with me.
I searched everywhere for the comedian’s model but couldn’t find one and am still looking.
Not giving up, I compromised: as long as it was a red-dial square watch, anything would do, and that’s how I found this Must Tank.
I originally wanted a silver case, but the tricolor combination of gold case, red dial, and blue stone at the crown tip was too good to resist, so I bought it.
The red dial here is a deep burgundy, not a bright red, and I like that.
On a red leather strap, it looks somewhat feminine, but on a black strap it becomes sharp.
The watch stands out on its own, but since it’s not bright red and the watch area is small, it doesn’t clash with outfits.
It works well as a subtle accent with monochrome outfits.
I also think it pairs nicely with blue-toned outfits. One of my favorites is inspired by the comedian: white jacket, blue shirt, and a small red accent at the wrist.
I don’t think it pairs well with pink, red, orange, or yellow items.
As expected from Cartier, the watch itself is beautiful, but it does have a significant flaw.
The case discolors over time.
The material is sterling silver (925) with 18k gold plating, which discolors more easily than plating over stainless steel.
You can re-plate to make it look new again, but that costs money, so it’s not something I do casually.
7th Place: LIP, Manual-Wind
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 3
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 9
Total: 12 points
Story behind the purchase:
LIP is a French watch brand.
The Mach is a well-known model, but the brand has also produced many dress-style watches.
I wanted a gold-colored case watch that I could use casually without worrying too much, and I found this one at a very low price like 50 USD in a second-hand shop.
It wasn’t that I specifically wanted a LIP dress watch; I bought it lightly, thinking that it looked vintage, subdued, and cool, and was inexpensive enough.
It has a very vintage-like face and a compact size of around 32 mm.
There are many similar watches on the vintage market from brands like Omega, old IWC, and Seiko, but I like that LIP is a brand that is unlikely to overlap with others.
Its versatility is excellent.
Because it is thin and small, it fits neatly under shirt cuffs and is perfect for suit styles.
I feel it works better with brown or beige, somewhat old-man-like styles rather than sleek, urban navy suit styles.
It matches not only suits but also casual styles. I think it works with tweed jackets, a shirt or polo alone, or even just a T-shirt.
Because it is a subdued watch, rather than perfectly matching a specific outfit, it tends to work reasonably well with almost anything.
Since it has a gold case, it comes in handy when there is some gold element elsewhere, such as blazer buttons, belt hardware, or monk-strap shoe buckles.
However, wearing it does not excite me very much.
The biggest reason is that it is gold-plated.
I have come to think that if I am going to wear gold-colored items, solid gold is better than plating.
This may sound harsh, but gold plating can be seen as wanting to look like gold without spending the money—an appearance-focused, slightly pretentious mindset.
If that is the case, I would rather it simply be stainless steel in silver color, without plating.
I am afraid of becoming an “old man who loves gold.”
7th Place: TIMEX × Nigel Cabourn, Military Watch, Quartz, Current Model
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 8
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 4
Total: 12 points
This is the only current-production model on the list.
Story behind the purchase:
I am not sure if the TIMEX × Nigel Cabourn watches are still being released, but at the time, new models were announced every year.
All of them were cool, but this model was the only one that truly clicked with me.
The yellow color really hit the spot for me.
Apparently, it is based on the color of British Army paratrooper parachutes.
The TIMEX × Nigel Cabourn collaboration includes larger models of around 36 mm, but this one is 34 mm.
If it had been 36 mm, I would not have bought it.
Because it is a military watch, it basically does not match suits or tailored jacket styles.
I do not think it even matches military outfits that well. I believe that within an outfit, one military item is the maximum; more than that makes the overall look too soldier-like.
To be honest, I am not entirely sure what kinds of outfits it really works with.
It seems like it would work for fishing outfits. I think it occupies a similar niche to a G-Shock—something mainly for outdoor use.
Its versatility is low, but as a standalone item it is very cool, and it really resonates with me.
5th Place: Cartier, Santos Carrée (Galbée), Automatic
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 8
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 7
Total: 15 points
Story behind the purchase:
I copied BEAMS’ Mr. Shuhei Nishiguchi.
He wears this watch frequently in his daily posts and has mentioned in videos that it is one of his favorite watches.
Thanks to (or because of) his excellent styling, my desire grew to the point where I could not hold it back.
The balance of pairing this shiny watch with earthy, rough-looking outfits really appealed to me.
Its popularity is increasing worldwide, and even at the watch shop where I work part-time, I feel that many overseas customers are looking for this model.
As of 2025, the market price is around USD 5,300–6,000, nearly double what it was a few years ago.
As expected, Cartier watches have outstanding design.
I have no idea how they come up with such designs.
The official name of this watch is Santos Carrée. “Carrée” apparently means “square” in French.
There is a similar model called the Santos Galbée. “Galbée” refers to curvature, and compared to the Santos Carrée, it has a more rounded, curved design.
The Santos Galbée is also cool, and it likely offers better comfort, but I feel the sharp, angular image of the Santos Carrée is more vintage-like. Just like cars, products seem to become more streamlined as time goes on.
Because the Santos Carrée is not curved, each bracelet link reflects light individually, creating a sparkling effect.
That is what makes it so appealing.
In terms of versatility, it is too flashy for suits, but I would not be exaggerating to say it works with almost everything else.
It is especially useful for adding a subtle touch of elegance to earthy, rugged outfits.
On the other hand, pairing it with glossy black leather riders jackets may make the overall look too polished.
Even so, I rated its versatility at 6 because it is easy to overlap with others.
When walking around Tokyo these days, I often encounter at least one person per day wearing this watch.
Even though it is a vintage piece that is not easy to obtain, overlapping with others shows just how popular it is and how many were produced.
I cannot really complain since I am one of those who bought into the trend, but seeing someone else wearing a favorite watch does slightly lower my excitement.
As a result, despite buying it, I have been wearing it far less frequently lately.
Honestly, if I sold it now, I would make a profit compared to the purchase price, but I plan to keep it and wait for its popularity to settle down and for fewer people to wear it.
4th Place: Vacheron Constantin, White Gold Case Black Dial, Manual-Wind
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 10
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 6
Total: 16 points
Story behind the purchase:
I did not own a proper dress watch that matched a sharply tailored suit.
I do not know if I will ever wear a tuxedo in my lifetime, but I wanted a cool watch that could match a tuxedo.
I go into detail about the decision process and impressions after purchasing it in a separate article in Japanese.
I gave it a perfect score for coolness.
It is beautiful to the point that I find myself staring at it in admiration.
White gold is a material that, unless you have an exceptional eye, you cannot really tell apart from stainless steel. Of course, I cannot tell either.
Perhaps I only find it beautiful because I know it is white gold.
Even so, solid gold has a kind of magic, even if it is purely self-satisfaction.
Not only the case, but also the hour markers—the twelve Roman numerals—are made of white gold, and they look incredibly beautiful when light hits them.
What I particularly love is the matte black dial.
A glossy black dial emphasizes the deep black color, but matte black moves closer to gray.
Glossy jet black is cool, but perhaps too cool; I find the understated matte finish easier to use.
In terms of versatility, its dressy impression makes it difficult to match with outfits without a tailored jacket.
Even with suits or jacket-and-slacks styles, I think monochrome styling works better than brown or earth-tone outfits.
When wearing this watch, black shoes feel like the only option. I cannot picture pairing it with brown shoes.
Also, since I wear a yellow gold wedding ring, the color of the ring and the watch do not match. I know no one notices, but it bothers me.
Sometimes I even want to own wedding rings in two different colors.
3rd Place: Seiko, One-Push Chronograph, Manual-Wind
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 10
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 7
Total: 17 points
Story behind the purchase:
I was not looking for any specific watch, but as part of my daily routine of browsing various vintage watch shop websites, I learned about the Seiko one-push chronograph, Japan’s first domestically produced chronograph, born in the 1960s.
I was drawn to its diver-like appearance, and even more so by the fact that it was made by a Japanese manufacturer.
Around that time, I watched a film “Always: Sunset on Third Street” for the first time, which allowed me to imagine the atmosphere of Tokyo around the 1964 Olympics. Thinking that this watch was born in that era made it even more appealing, and I decided to buy it.
The Seiko one-push chronograph comes with either plastic or metal bezels. Among the metal ones, there are black-painted versions and ones like mine, which are stainless steel with no paint at all.
Even with Omega Speedmasters or Rolex Daytonas, there are many bezel variations, but I prefer stainless steel bezels with no paint, just printed text and numerals.
That is why this particular piece really resonated with me.
I also love the dial color.
The silver seems to have aged slightly, turning into a champagne color.
I bought it for around USD 600. It is not a luxury watch, but every time I look at it, I think it is cool and it lifts my spirits.
I have tried suede straps and NATO straps, but currently I use the original rice bracelet.
It looks good no matter what you put it on.
With the rice bracelet, from a distance it is sometimes mistaken for a Rolex Datejust. They do look similar.
In terms of versatility, it is mainly suited for casual outfits.
Although it is simple, it has a diameter of around 37–38 mm and some thickness, so it does not fit under shirt cuffs. As a result, it is difficult to pair with suits or even jacket-and-slacks styles.
You can wear it with short sleeves, or with long sleeves if you roll them up.
The colors—silver and champagne—are understated, so they work with both earth tones and monochrome outfits, with no color restrictions at all.
The downside is that, being a chronograph, maintenance costs are slightly higher. When I brought it to the service, it costed around 400 USD.
(article about the service in Japanese.)
2nd Place: Breitling, Chronograph, Manual-Wind
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 9
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 9
Total: 18 points
Story behind the purchase:
I bought this watch online, and it was pure love at first sight.
The copper-colored dial completely won me over. It is incredibly subdued and cool.
According to the seller, the dial was originally silver and changed to this color over time.
The dial is marked “MERVOS,” which seems to have been a brand in Central or South America, making this a kind of collaboration with Breitling.
The MERVOS brand likely no longer exists.
Looking closely, the surface has small pitted marks and cannot be called pristine, but since the color change is even throughout, it does not bother me much.
I also really like that the scales are drawn in red and blue.
What I like most, however, are the hands.
They are beautifully blued hands, likely heat-blued rather than painted.
The hands are so beautiful that they may have been replaced at some point, but as long as it looks cool, I do not mind.
It is a so-called vertical-register chronograph, with the chronograph counter and small seconds aligned vertically. Horizontal layouts are more common, so this slight variation is appealing.
The size is also very vintage-like, at around 34 mm in diameter. In modern watches, chronographs this small are only found in women’s models.
Not only is it cool and subdued, but it almost never overlaps with others, which is another great point.
Even if the same model were found, it is extremely unlikely that the aging would be identical.
Every other watch I own, aside from this one, I have seen for sale elsewhere.
I still gave it a 9 for coolness because it is gold-plated.
The case has many small scratches, and in some places the plating has worn off, revealing the stainless steel underneath.
Re-plating is an option, but I do not want to risk losing its vintage character.
I would be lying if I said I did not wish it were solid gold, so I deducted one point.
1st Place: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso, Manual-Wind
Coolness (Does it excite me when I wear it?): 10
Versatility (Ease of pairing with outfits): 10
Total: 20 points
Story behind the purchase:
The first time I saw the Reverso, I was convinced that this would be the watch to accompany me for life.
That is half a joke, but it is true that I felt something very close to that.
Its one-of-a-kind design, the story behind its creation, and the brand’s history—all of it becomes more fascinating the more you learn.
I prefer gold-colored watches over silver, and if I were to buy a Reverso, yellow gold was my only choice.
It has a slightly unusual dial compared to the standard design, which makes it less likely to overlap with others—another plus.
Although it originated as a sports watch for polo, it is now regarded as a representative dress watch, making it a rather unique existence.
Because of that ambiguous positioning, it works perfectly with sharply tailored suits and also with moderately casual outfits, making it an extremely versatile watch.
As long as it is not just a plain white T-shirt, I think it works with almost any outfit.
The dial is white, so both brown and black leather straps work, but I chose a gray strap so I could wear it regardless of shoe color.
This made it even more versatile.
When it comes to rectangular watches, most people would probably name either Cartier’s Tank or Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso.
Both are outstanding watches, but what the Reverso has that the Tank does not is seriousness.
Regardless of whether the wearer is serious or not, I think it makes you look a bit smarter—or at least I want to believe that.
Since it is a popular watch, it does occasionally overlap with others, but while stainless steel versions are common, yellow gold cases are rarely seen (at least in Japan).
So I never feel disappointed even if I see someone else wearing one.
By the way, the Reverso is still in production today, but the current models are said to be slightly larger than vintage ones.
Some people may feel it is too small, but I believe this original size is perfect.
I truly love it—it is the best watch. (below article in Japanese.)
In Closing
Personally, I found it interesting that my satisfaction with the watches I bought had little to do with their purchase prices.
With shoes, the more expensive they were, the higher my satisfaction tended to be. With watches, perhaps it means that if you search persistently, you are more likely to find something highly satisfying at a good price.
If you like, I would love to hear about your number-one watch as well.
(my loafers ranking in Japanese. English one is now being prepared.)
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